Dibrugarh Insider's Guide: History, Recommendations, Tips

Nestled alongside the Brahmaputra River, Dibrugarh, founded in 1842, often flies under the radar as a tourist destination. Yet, this town serves as the perfect launchpad for exploring the enchanting northeastern expanse of Assam, alongside its neighboring states of Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland.

Growing up in Dibrugarh was like living in a serene oasis, tucked away from the bustling pace of the world. As children, our days were filled with simple joys—a bicycle ride, a walk by the river, tennis at the club, and a morning movie show on Sundays because it was the only time Aurora and Rangghar theaters played English movies. We rode our bicycles to eat puris [light deep-fried bread] at the hotel by a large tree. We frequented Jai Gobind Sweets for delicious eats and doi [sweet yogurt], adding a touch of sweetness to our childhood memories.

Dibrugarh's urbanization brought its challenges—unplanned construction, traffic congestion, worsening water quality, air and noise pollution, lack of waste management—and the struggle to maintain its unique past. Efforts are being made by the current administration to take on those challenges faced by the town.

Amidst those initiatives, you will find an authentic Pxley story here, urging you to explore Dibrugarh's original township. I offer genuine insights that enrich readers' understanding of the locale. Additionally, discover a selection of side trips that promise to enhance your visit and create an exceptional experience.

Note: I don't receive kickbacks from any of the businesses mentioned in this story, ensuring unbiased recommendations.

History

Historically, Dibrugarh was an important administrative, strategic, and unique educational town. For example:

• From an administrative perspective, Dibrugarh was made the headquarters of the district in 1840.

• From a military standpoint, the British and the Americans made the region its strategic outpost.

• From an educational perspective, the first school for girls in the region was established in 1885, followed by the first medical institution in Northeast India in 1901.

Here are a few interesting facts about Dibrugarh:

• Dibrugarh was part of the Chutia kingdom until 1523. 

• The Dibrugarh Court was established in 1840. 

• Dibrugarh Govt. Boys' Higher Secondary School was established in 1840. 

• Earliest known watercolor of the Brahmaputra River in Dibrugarh. The Burhampootra & Tibet mountains from Dibrooghur, Assam, by Edward Augustus Prinsep, dated c.1848. 

• Dibrugarh was declared a township in 1868. 

• The first school for girls, Government Girls Higher Secondary School, was established in 1885.

• The Times of Assam, the first news weekly in the region, was published in 1895. 

• Assam Medical College [formerly Berry White Medical School] established in 1900 was the first medical institution in Northeast India. 

• During World War II, Dibrugarh was a military base and transit camp for evacuees from Burma [now Myanmar].

Transport and Accommodation

Planes and trains connect Dibrugarh to and from several Indian cities. The closest cities are Guwahati and Kolkata. The airport in Dibrugarh has taxis for hire, which you can prepay, but don't expect the same level of organization and oversight as in Delhi or Bangalore. Your hotel can arrange for a taxi from the airport.

There are various options for hotels in Dibrugarh, but not all might meet the requirements of a high-end traveler. A list of hotels are not included since other portals specialize in that information. However, read both positive and negative reviews to form a comprehensive understanding of a hotel.

Homestays are another option, in addition to specialized accommodations in a tea estate.

Winter in Dibrugarh brings cold temperatures, while summer is characterized by hot and humid weather. The monsoon season spans from June to September, bringing high humidity and a risk of flooding. For the best experience, I recommend visiting Dibrugarh between December and February. During these months, nighttime temperatures range from 10°C to 15°C, and daytime temperatures are pleasant, averaging around 21°C.

The Brahmaputra

If you fly into Dibrugarh, the Brahmaputra River comes into view as your aircraft begins its descent. The Brahmaputra can average between 3 to 8 kilometers in width near Dibrugarh, depending upon the time of the year. Several agencies [Government of India, state government, USAID] have made attempts since 1934 to stabilize the river due to the continued erosion of its banks that impacts the lives of many. There are several stone and timber posts along with dikes that have been put in place to protect the town of Dibrugarh, a portion of which was submerged under the river due to erosion of the river banks.

The Brahmaputra River served as a vital transportation route for the Allied forces during World War II. It allowed for the movement of troops, equipment, and supplies in the region. The river facilitated the movement of goods from the ports in India to the front lines in eastern India and Burma [now Myanmar]. Explore more about Dinjan, an extraordinary chapter of World War II, in a piece I wrote. Uncover its fascinating history today!

Tea Estates

Dibrugarh is surrounded by rice paddies and tea estates. I highly recommend a visit to a tea estate.

Tea estates are owned by private companies or individuals. Depending on the location of these estates, tea is grown on flat land or on slopes. Tea estates vary in size. Some tea estates grow, harvest and sell their leaves, while others have a tea factory within their premises to process their leaves. If you are visiting Dibrugarh during the months of December through February, most tea estates are in maintenance mode. This means you won't see a tea factory in operation. Discover the art of brewing a simple cup of black tea in my guide, "Let's Have a Cup of Black Tea." Elevate your tea experience today!

The following is an excerpt pertaining to travel to Tea Plantations in Dibrugarh from "A Handbook for Travellers in India, Ceylon, and Burma" by John Murray, 1894.

Historic Buildings

Driving by the defunct flour mill in Dibrugarh always brings back a wave of nostalgia. The familiar smell of freshly ground flour filled the air, a comforting scent that connected me to the heritage of the town and its past. The flour mill, once the tallest building in its prime, now stands as a silent witness to the changing landscape of Dibrugarh, serving as a poignant reminder of the pivotal role it played in shaping the community's livelihood.

A few historic buildings and site in Dibrugarh should be on your must-see list. Some of these are: a) Assam Medical College [formerly Berry White Medical School; established 1900]; b) Bar Library [formerly McWilliam Hall]; and c) British Cemetery [built in 1862 and final resting ground of 103 British nationals]. Lower your expectations regarding these historic buildings and site as their former splendor has not been adequately maintained for a variety of reasons. However, even in their current state, these structures still hold immense cultural significance and are worthy of appreciation.

Home Visit

If you have the opportunity to visit an Assamese home in a nearby village, do so. Traditionally, houses were constructed of mud-plastered bamboo for walls and a thatched roof. Given the prevailing geological and topographical settings, Assam-type architecture is meant to be earthquake-proof. Homes in villages had a loom and a dheki, a foot pounder for husking grains.

A homestay in Dibrugarh I can recommend is Bhaskar Home Stay. They won't have a loom or dheki at their modern premises but your stay will be secure and pleasant, and they might be able to recommend a home visit in a nearby village.

Ceremonies

Traditional Assamese ceremonies, unlike any seen in other parts of India, provide a glimpse into the particular culture of the region. There are two primary cultural and religious institutions that influence the fabric of Assamese culture: satras and nāmghar. 

Satras started in Assam during the 15th-16th centuries and propagated a form of Vaishnavism. Vaishnavism [a set of traditions that adheres to the worship of god Vishnu] emphasizes equality for all people instead of the system that divides society into hierarchical classes.

A nāmghar is the central structure of a satra. In the Assamese language, nāmghar means nām [prayer] and ghar [house]. A nāmghar is also a community hall and an arts and crafts learning center.

If your schedule permits, I highly recommend a visit to Majuli. It is one of the last bastions that preserve Assamese traditions in their original form.

Cuisine

You can always fall back on a KFC or Domino’s Pizza but discovering the local foods of a region is a huge part of travel and exploration. With a bit of planning and foresight, you can learn to truly appreciate the authentic cuisine. Ask the personnel at your hotel's front desk to recommend a place to eat.

I recommend Fill in the Blank, a food joint run by a mother-daughter duo. Let them know where you're visiting from and ask for their recommended dishes. Additionally, with advance planning, you can have breakfast, lunch, or dinner meals delivered to you by Happy Kitchen. They also cater to patients at home or in hospitals who require a special diet. Supporting women-led initiatives like these is a great way to contribute to the community.

A unique opportunity would be to attend a traditional ceremony that offers maah prokhad—green gram [a green kind of bean], black chickpea, coconut, sugarcane, ginger, etc. A few unique items are: poita bhat—cooked rice kept overnight in cold water; cira—dried pounded rice; akhoi—parched husk-free rice; hurum—a type of puffed rice; sandoh guri—coarse powder of parched rice; khar—ashes of dried bark and root of plantain tree.

Textiles

It used to be common to find a loom in an Assamese house in a village. Three prominent Assamese items made on a loom are a gamusa, mekhela-sador, and a riha.

A gamusa is rectangular in shape, woven on a traditional Assamese loom with white and red cotton thread. A mekhela-sador is a two-piece dress worn by women. The woven designs on a mekhela-sador generally depict traditional Assamese musical instruments, flowers, birds, etc. A riha is also worn along with a mekhela-sador on particular occasions.

A shop I can recommend for a traditional mekhela-sador is Assam Fancy Silk House. My late mother was a loyal patron of this store, and my sisters still frequent it. Though not large in size, the store offers authentic mekhela-sadors at reasonable prices. Moreover, supporting this local establishment contributes to the community's economy.

Market

The market area in Dibrugarh is a mix of commercial and residential spaces. Amidst the hustle and bustle, you will find the bustling vegetable and fruit market, the lively fish and poultry market, and an array of stores offering everything from clothing to utensils to groceries. Exploring these markets offers more than just shopping; it provides a glimpse into the daily lives and traditions of the residents, fostering a deeper connection to the community and its culture. I always encourage a visit to the local market as it not only supports the local economy but also enriches one's understanding of the town's dynamics and its people.

Dutta Brothers [shop in the above photo] has been serving generations with textiles and clothing, ingrained in the fabric of the community's history. However, the emergence of big-brand stores poses a threat, siphoning funds away from the local economy. Hence, supporting local establishments like Dutta Brothers is essential to preserving community identity and fostering economic resilience.

Forgotten Trails

Historical documentation holds significance not only at a local level but also in contributing to our understanding of broader societal trends and migration patterns. While physical structures may endure storms and time, the records they safeguard remain as enduring beacons illuminating the path of our shared history.

The original St. Paul's Church, once a cornerstone of the community, fell victim to the ravages of nature during the devastating earthquake of 1950, succumbing to erosion in 1954. However, from its remnants emerged a new St. Paul's Church in 1955, serving as a testament to resilience and continuity. Located near the Planter's Club, it stands as a symbol not just of religious faith but also of the enduring spirit of a community.

Equally integral to the town's historical tapestry is the Dibrugarh Christian Cemetery, established circa 1862. Intended as a final resting place for Christian missionaries, settlers, and local residents, it now stands as a silent witness to the passage of time. Unfortunately, neglect now shrouds its once-hallowed grounds, a fact that became painfully evident during a recent visit. Despite its dilapidated state, the cemetery holds a treasure trove of stories waiting to be unearthed, serving as an invaluable repository of local history and preserving the memory of generations past.

Beyond mere burial grounds, epitaphs, gravestones, and archival records found within cemeteries offer glimpses into the lives of those who shaped our town's trajectory. As custodians of these legacies, it is our responsibility to ensure their preservation for the benefit of future generations.

Flooding Challenges

No story about Dibrugarh is complete without mentioning floods. I have lived through it on several occasions. Flooding is a perennial issue in Dibrugarh town, exacerbated by the Brahmaputra River's yearly flow above the danger mark and heavy monsoon rains. The town's low-lying areas are particularly vulnerable, often experiencing inundation that disrupts daily life and damages property. Efforts to mitigate flooding through infrastructure improvements face challenges due to rapid urbanization, which has blocked or diminished natural drainage pathways for monsoon rains to flow out of the town and into the river. Additionally, unplanned growth has filled up ponds and diminished natural aquifers and permeable layers that previously aided in natural water seepage into the ground. These combined factors underscore the ongoing struggle of Dibrugarh residents to adapt to and mitigate the impacts of seasonal flooding.

Amidst these challenges, at home, we preemptively elevate belongings from the floor to tables or beds. Seasonal crops and flowers endure some waterlogging but often perish. Thus, we've adapted our lifestyles to coexist with nature's unpredictability. Nevertheless, human activities have significantly contributed to worsening these problems.

A Legacy

Our local tennis club, located alongside the river, had faced repeated submergence of its courts. After each flood, the grass courts required extended drying periods compared to the clay ones. Sadly, the club has ceased to exist due to various factors. This loss is regrettable because it nurtured numerous friendships, provided growth opportunities for young teens, imparted valuable life lessons, and cultivated a profound appreciation for the game of tennis, significantly shaping my life. I am especially grateful to the long-standing members who foresaw the club's importance and worked diligently to maintain it, many of whom have since passed away, leaving behind a legacy of community and sportsmanship that continues to inspire.

Day Trips

Dibrugarh is an excellent gateway destination to its neighboring towns. Here are four that can be a part of your visit to Dibrugarh:

1) Namphake: A visit to the Namphake village illustrates how the Tai-Phake, an offshoot of the Tai race, found its place in Assam. The community worships Lord Buddha. In addition to a monastery, pagoda, and Ashoka pillar, a water tank has a statue of a meditating Buddha protected by a snake with its hood. The monastery is run by Buddhist monks and local villagers help in any manner possible.

2) Digboi: The first crude oil well in Asia was drilled in Digboi. As a child I remember hearing the fable of how Digboi got its name — “Dig boy, dig.” — which is how the British engineers encouraged laborers as they dug for crude oil. The town has several unique bungalows that catered to the British professionals working for the Assam Oil Company. The Digboi War Cemetery is the resting ground for the fallen Indian and British soldiers during World War II. Several of the marked graves date soldiers that died between 1939 and 1945. Approximately 24 kilometers from Digboi brings you to a small town called Ledo, which is the starting point of Ledo Road [aka Stilwell Road] that was built by American and British troops during World War II as a supply route to China through Burma.

3) Sivasagar: Located 80 kilometers southwest of Dibrugarh is the town of Sivasagar, the capital of the Ahom Kingdom from 1699 to 1788. Visit some of the monuments from the Ahom Kingdom in and around Sivasagar, including Charaideo that has a collection of maidams [tumuli or burial mounds] of the Ahom kings and royalty. I highly recommend a visit to Sivasagar because without a background or visit to this  understated town in Assam, your knowledge of and experience in northeast India will be fragmented. Explore more about Sivasagar.

4) Majuli: Surrounded by the Brahmaputra River and its tributaries, Majuli is the largest riverine island in the world. Life in Majuli appears idyllic, but the hardships faced by its inhabitants due to the monsoon floods and silt deposits are demanding. Majuli is home to 22 satras, while some others have relocated off the island due to soil erosion. When you visit a satra, attend a gayan-bayan session, a devotional performance by the Vaishnavite Assamese. Explore more about Majuli.

P.S.

For guests, while I work from home, or as I enjoy a cup of tea, I always keep a selection of goodies from Jai Gobind Sweets. Renowned for its unwavering commitment to purity, Jai Gobind Sweets is a gem that offers an array of delectable treats, each crafted with authentic ingredients, including milk sourced directly from their own herd of water buffaloes.